When the International African American Museum opens to the public Tuesday in South Carolina, it becomes a new site of homecoming and pilgrimage for descendants of enslaved Africans whose arrival in the Western Hemisphere begins on the docks of the lowcountry coast.
Overlooking the old wharf in Charleston at which nearly half
of the enslaved population first entered North America, the 150,000-square-foot
(14,000-square-meter) museum houses exhibits and artifacts exploring how
African Americans’ labor, perseverance, resistance and cultures shaped the
Carolinas, the nation and the world.
It also includes a genealogy research center to help
families trace their ancestors’ journey from point of arrival on the land.
The opening happens at a time when the very idea of Black
people’s survival through slavery, racial apartheid and economic oppression
being quintessential to the American story is being challenged throughout the
U.S. Leaders of the museum said its existence is not a rebuttal to current
attempts to suppress history, but rather an invitation to dialogue and
discovery.
“Show me a courageous space, show me an open space, show me
a space that meets me where I am, and then gets me where I asked to go,” said
Dr. Tonya Matthews, the museum’s president and CEO.
“I think that’s the superpower of museums,” she said. “The
only thing you need to bring to this museum is your curiosity, and we’ll do the
rest.”
The $120 million facility features nine galleries that
contain nearly a dozen interactive exhibits of more than 150 historical objects
and 30 works of art. One of the museum’s exhibits will rotate two to three
times each year.
Upon entering the space, eight large video screens play a
looped trailer of a diasporic journey that spans centuries, from cultural roots
on the African continent and the horrors of the Middle Passage to the regional
and international legacies that spawned out of Africans’ dispersal and
migration across lands.
The screens are angled as if to beckon visitors towards
large windows and a balcony at the rear of the museum, revealing sprawling
views of the Charleston harbor.
One unique feature of the museum is its gallery dedicated to
the history and culture of the Gullah Geechee people. Their isolation on rice,
indigo and cotton plantations on coastal South Carolina, Georgia and North
Florida helped them maintain ties to West African cultural traditions and
creole language. A multimedia, chapel-sized “praise house” in the gallery
highlights the faith expressions of the Gullah Geechee and shows how those
expressions are imprinted on Black American gospel music.
On Saturday, the museum grounds buzzed with excitement as
its founders, staff, elected officials and other invited guests dedicated the
grounds in spectacular fashion.
The program was emceed by award-winning actress and director
Phylicia Rashad and included stirring appearances by poet Nikky Finney and the
McIntosh County Shouters, who perform songs passed down by enslaved African
Americans.
“Truth sets us free — free to understand, free to respect
and free to appreciate the full spectrum of our shared history,” said former
Charleston Mayor Joseph Riley, Jr. who is widely credited for the idea to bring
the museum to the city.
Planning for the International African American Museum dates
back to 2000, when Riley called for its creation in a State of the City
address. It took many more years, through setbacks in fundraising and changes
in museum leadership, before construction started in 2019.
Originally set to open in 2020, the museum was further
delayed by the coronavirus pandemic, as well as by issues in the supply chain
of materials needed to complete construction.
Gadsden’s Wharf, a 2.3-acre waterfront plot where it’s
estimated that up 45% of enslaved Africans brought to the United States in the
late 18th and early 19th centuries walked, sets the tone for how the museum is
experienced. The wharf was built by Revolutionary War figure Christopher
Gadsden.
The land is now part of an intentionally designed ancestral
garden. Black granite walls are erected on the spot of a former storage house,
a space where hunched enslaved humans perished awaiting their transport to the
slave market. The walls are emblazoned with lines of Maya Angelou’s poem, “And
Still I Rise.”
The museum’s main structure does not touch the hallowed
grounds on which it is located. Instead, it is hoisted above the wharf by 18
cylindrical columns. Beneath the structure is a shallow fountain tribute to the
men, women and children whose bodies were inhumanely shackled together in the
bellies of ships in the transatlantic slave trade.
To discourage visitors from walking on the raised outlines
of the shackled bodies, a walkway was created through the center of the wharf
tribute.
“There’s something incredibly significant about reclaiming a
space that was once the landing point, the beginning of a horrific American
journey for captured Africans,” said Malika Pryor, the museum’s chief learning
and education officer.
Walter Hood, founder and creative director of Hood Design
Studios based in Oakland, California, designed the landscape of the museum’s
grounds. The designs are inspired by tours of lowcountry and its former
plantations, he said. The lush grounds, winding paths and seating areas are
meant to be an ethnobotanical garden, forcing visitors to see how the botany of
enslaved Africans and their descendants helped shape what still exists today
across the Carolinas.
The opening of the Charleston museum adds to a growing array
of institutions dedicated to teaching an accurate history of the Black
experience in America. Many will have heard of, and perhaps visited, the
Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture in the
nation’s capital, which opened in 2016.
Lesser known Afrocentric museums and exhibits exist in
nearly every region of the country. In Montgomery, Alabama, The Legacy Museum:
From Enslavement to Mass Incarceration and the corresponding National Memorial
for Peace and Justice highlight slavery, Jim Crow and the history of lynching
in America.
Pryor, formerly the educational director of the Charles H.
Wright Museum of African American History in Detroit, said these types of
museums focus on the underdiscussed, underengaged parts of the American story.
“This is such an incredibly expansive history, there’s room
for 25 more museums that would have opportunities to bring a new curatorial
lens to this conversation,” she said.
The museum has launched an initiative to develop
relationships with school districts, especially in places where laws limit how
public school teachers discuss race and racism in the classroom. In recent
years, conservative politicians around the country have banned books in more
than 5,000 schools in 32 states. Bans or limits on instruction about slavery
and systemic racism have been enacted in at least 16 states since 2021.
Pryor said South Carolina’s ban on the teaching of critical
race theory in public schools has not put the museum out of reach for local
elementary, middle and high schools that hope to make field trips there.
“Even just the calls and the requests for school group
visits, for school group tours, they number easily in the hundreds,” she said.
“And we haven’t formally opened our doors yet.”
When the doors are open, all are welcome to reckon with a
fuller truth of the Black American story, said Matthews, the museum president.
“If you ask me what we want people to feel when they are in
the museum, our answer is something akin to everything,” she said.
“It is the epitome of our journey, the execution of our
mission, to honor the untold stories of the African American journey at one of
our nation’s most sacred sites.”
___ Aaron Morrison is a New York-based member of AP’s Race
and Ethnicity team. Follow him on Twitter:
https://www.twitter.com/aaronlmorrison