Models glided down the runway in intricately beaded and sequined ensembles, their designs reflecting the enduring traditions of identity and artistry still visible across parts of Nigeria. Other pieces celebrated adire, the centuries-old Yoruba indigo textile renowned for its craftsmanship and symbolism.
“Nigeria and its culture and its heritage are 100 percent in my designs — from inception all the way through to the end,” Onalaja told AFP during her Wednesday evening presentation, which she described as a “celebration” of heritage and individuality. The event followed her successful outing at New York Fashion Week earlier this year.
Now in its 15th year, Lagos Fashion Week continues through Sunday in Nigeria’s bustling cultural and economic capital. It has grown into the continent’s largest fashion gathering, attracting designers, creatives, and audiences from Dakar to Johannesburg.
Onalaja, whose lineage blends Edo and Yoruba roots, said her latest collection reimagines adire through modern storytelling and three-dimensional textures. “I think I stopped trying to fit into a particular box of what the West wants,” she noted. “I’m representing myself — the colour, the contrasts, the fusion — everything I grew up around.”
Her distinctive vision has found fans far beyond Nigeria. Hollywood stars such as Kandi Burruss, Chloe Bailey, and Jennifer Hudson have all worn Onalaja’s creations on the red carpet, drawn to her bold craftsmanship and unapologetic embrace of African aesthetics.
In addition to redefining luxury, Onalaja also used the runway to champion inclusivity, featuring models and designs in sizes from extra small to 4XL. “I’ve always struggled with my weight and wanted clothes that make me feel great no matter the occasion,” she said. “We also need more representation of age — because we get older every time.”
Guests at her Lagos showcase included “Afro-lux” pioneer Reni Folawiyo, actress Somkele Iyamah-Idhalama, and American singer Ciara, adding star power to a night brimming with colour, culture, and confidence.
The event comes amid a global rise in African design. This year alone, soul legend Diana Ross dazzled in a sweeping 18-foot gown by Nigerian designer Ugo Mozie at the Met Gala, while Afrobeats stars Tems, Burna Boy, and Ayra Starr donned outfits by British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng.
For Onalaja, the growing global acclaim is gratifying — but her mission remains deeply personal. “I’m bringing myself and my heritage — the chaos and the beautiful — all together,” she said. “I’m not shying away from that anymore.”