Costelloe, who died last November aged 80, had been a fixture of the event since its inception in 1984. For four decades, his romantic and sharply tailored collections regularly set the tone for the week’s proceedings, even as the event evolved and, at times, struggled to compete with larger fashion capitals. His shows became a constant through the rise and fall of London’s global standing, as major labels increasingly migrated to Milan, Paris and New York.
Now, the designer’s son, William Costelloe, steps into the spotlight as creative director of the family brand. Ahead of the opening show, the label signalled continuity and renewal in equal measure, describing the moment as “a legacy moving forward.”
A Mix of Established Names and Rising Voices
While London has ceded some star power in recent years, it retains a distinct identity: less dominated by global luxury houses and more defined by experimentation and youth culture.
Among those presenting on Thursday is British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, whose label, launched in 2018, has gained attention for elegant, largely unisex silhouettes shaped by explorations of identity and diaspora narratives.
Other familiar names returning to the London catwalk include Harris Reed and Richard Quinn. The week will conclude in customary fashion with a show by British heritage house Burberry on Monday evening.
Royal influence will also be felt on the runway. Labels favoured by Catherine, Princess of Wales — including Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem Moralioglu — are scheduled to present new collections, adding a touch of regal visibility to proceedings.
A Notable Absence
Conspicuously absent this season is Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, long regarded as one of London’s most anticipated talents. The 41-year-old took up a senior role at Dior last June, leaving limited time to focus on his own label, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008. His absence underscores the broader gravitational pull of Paris and other global fashion capitals.
London’s Enduring Role as Incubator
Despite heightened competition from Paris and Milan, London continues to position itself as a breeding ground for emerging designers. Central to this mission is the British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative, which provides financial support and mentorship to promising labels.
Designers such as Simone Rocha, Roksanda Ilinčić and Tolu Coker all built their reputations through early exposure on the NewGen catwalk, later becoming mainstays of the schedule.
One of the latest beneficiaries of London’s nurturing ecosystem is 27-year-old Joshua Ewusie, founder of the brand E.W.Usie. Born in Britain to Ghanaian parents, Ewusie is set to stage his second fashion week presentation. Shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins, he received support from The King’s Foundation — established by Charles III — in partnership with Chanel, which provided him with studio space.
Ewusie has described London as offering “great support for young designers,” citing the city’s fashion schools and infrastructure as critical to helping new brands take root. His latest collection, inspired by the 1980s — the decade his mother moved to London — explores culture and identity, with leather emerging as a defining material.
French knitwear specialist Pauline Dujancourt has also opted to build her brand in London following studies at Paris’s Ecole Duperre and Central Saint Martins. While she acknowledges the allure of Paris Fashion Week, she believes London offers more space for younger labels to experiment and gain visibility.
There is, she suggests, an expectation that London will deliver “newness” — a quality that distinguishes it from the more established, heritage-driven showcases of Paris and Milan.
As the latest edition unfolds, London Fashion Week appears to be balancing homage and reinvention: honouring its stalwarts, accommodating global shifts in fashion power, and continuing to champion the next generation of designers determined to shape the industry’s future.