Founded in 1960, the House of Valentino became synonymous with refined femininity, impeccable tailoring, and a distinctive aesthetic that dressed some of the most influential women of the 20th and early 21st centuries. European royalty, American first ladies, Hollywood icons, and international celebrities all turned to Valentino for garments that balanced sophistication with sensual allure.
Renowned for his exacting pattern-making and lavish detailing, Valentino’s designs were defined by bows, ruffles, lace, intricate embroidery, and above all, his signature poppy-red hue—later immortalized as “Valentino red.” His circle of devoted clients, often referred to as “Val’s Gals,” included Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and Sophia Loren. Jacqueline Kennedy famously wore a white Valentino gown for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis, while decades later Jennifer Lopez paid homage to the designer by wearing a reinterpretation of a Valentino dress originally created for Jackie Kennedy to the 2003 Academy Awards. In 2001, Julia Roberts accepted her Best Actress Oscar for Erin Brockovich in a vintage black-and-white Valentino gown, further cementing his status as a red-carpet mainstay.
Valentino’s life and career were chronicled in the 2009 documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor, directed by Matt Tyrnauer. The film followed the designer, his longtime business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, and their inner circle during the final two years leading up to his retirement. In one of the documentary’s most quoted moments, Valentino succinctly defined his philosophy: “I know what women want, they want to be beautiful.” The statement captured the essence of a vision that transformed him into a multimillionaire and a global fashion authority.
Although Valentino officially retired in 2008—an occasion celebrated with a lavish three-day tribute in Rome—his presence in fashion never diminished. He remained a familiar figure in the front rows of haute couture shows, particularly at presentations by Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, who later moved on to Dior in 2016. Valentino was notably moved by Piccioli’s fall 2018 couture collection, rising for a standing ovation with tears streaming down his face.
Outside the fashion calendar, Garavani cultivated a glamorous public life, frequently sharing moments from his French estate, Château de Wideville, and his yacht, TM Blue One, on Instagram. Rarely far from his beloved pugs, he embodied the refined lifestyle his brand represented.
Anna Wintour, Global Chief Content Officer of Condé Nast and Global Editorial Director of Vogue, described Valentino as a man of delight and impeccable manners. She recalled watching him, via FaceTime, enthusiastically respond to Alessandro Michele’s first collection for Valentino. Wintour noted that Valentino not only understood his extraordinary clientele but lived the life they did, making his designs both authentic and intuitive. She credited much of his enduring success to his lifelong partnership with Giancarlo Giammetti, whom she described as a devoted guardian of his legacy.
Born on May 11, 1932, in Voghera, Italy, Valentino decided early in life to pursue fashion. He studied at the Accademia dell’Arte in Milan before moving to Paris at the age of 17, where he attended the École des Beaux-Arts and the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. His early professional experience included working under Jean Dessès, known for pleated evening gowns, and Guy Laroche, whose style leaned toward sporty elegance. He also collaborated with Princess Irene Galitzine, famed for popularizing elegant evening pajamas.
In 1959, with financial backing from his father and a family friend, Valentino established his couture house on Rome’s Via Condotti. Giancarlo Giammetti, whom he met shortly afterward, later described the maison as grand and distinctly Parisian in spirit, at a time when Italian fashion was still emerging on the global stage. Despite early acclaim, the house faced financial difficulties within its first year, forcing a move to a smaller space in a 16th-century palazzo on Via Gregoriana.
Valentino’s breakthrough moment came in 1961 when Elizabeth Taylor wore one of his white couture gowns to the premiere of Spartacus. His 1968 all-white couture collection firmly secured his place in fashion history. Vogue hailed it as “the talk of Europe,” praising the purity and refinement of its designs. Photographed in Cy Twombly’s Roman apartment on Marisa Berenson, the collection became emblematic of modern luxury.
While the white collection was pivotal, Valentino became forever associated with red—a vibrant, emotionally charged shade reflecting passion, romance, and Italian heritage. His philosophy of attraction and seduction was always tempered by an insistence on ladylike elegance, even when incorporating lingerie-inspired details, plunging necklines, or strategically placed cut-outs.
Valentino’s work reflected a polished formality rooted in the early jet-set era, yet it remained adaptable to changing times. Though he disliked much of 1980s fashion, his business flourished during the decade, with Vogue reporting that by 1986, Valentino was Italy’s top fashion exporter, generating approximately $385 million in shipments. The rise of celebrity culture in the 1990s further elevated his brand, making him a dominant presence on red carpets worldwide.
Despite producing ready-to-wear collections from the 1960s onward, Valentino maintained couture-level craftsmanship across all categories. Fashion critics frequently noted his ability to translate haute couture detailing into ready-to-wear without sacrificing refinement.
As Pierpaolo Piccioli once observed, Valentino was not just the designer behind the brand—he was the brand itself. Known for his immaculate grooming, tailored suits, and unwavering sense of decorum, he embodied the lifestyle he created. Even office culture at Valentino reflected this ethos, with air conditioning kept deliberately cold so staff could wear suits year-round.
In his later years, Valentino remained an enduring symbol of taste, success, and aspiration. He continued to inspire designers and admirers alike, guided by a lifelong pursuit of beauty and perfection. His dreams, often sketched as dresses drawn in a single line, remain deeply woven into the fabric of fashion history.
Valentino Garavani will lie in state at PM23, Piazza Mignanelli 23, Rome, on January 21 and 22. His funeral will take place on January 23 at 11 a.m. at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, Piazza della Repubblica, Rome.